I’m baaaaaaaaaaaaaack. Okay I know I said I’d be posting Robin’s Nest entries every Wednesday, but it’s been a crazy couple of weeks, and the website kinda blew up yesterday (we’re still dealing with some shrapnel so bear with us here).
We’ve been getting a lot of questions lately about how men’s suits and waistcoats and proper tailoring. So I thought we’d do a little series on some techniques you find in menswear. These aren’t things limited to menswear but will definitely help take your lounge jacket or waistcoat up a notch. I shall start by drawing your attention to the black bands on my favorite waistcoat pattern. Those are pocket welts. They’re single pocket welts, the black being the welt.
So here we go!
Your welt piece needs to be 2″ bigger (an inch on each side) than your finished slit on all sides. Place your welt on your fashion fabric right sides to right sides. I’ve marked my stitching lines with sharpie to make them more easy to photograph, I wouldn’t really do this. but then again I wouldn’t put a linen welt in a wool flannel suit either. Notice I have NOT stitched the small sides of my rectangle, this is VERY important.
NOW you can iron your pocket flat, notice how nicely it lays? Iron open first THEN flat.
It should look like this when you’ve ironed it nice and flat. (Did I mention ironing’s important yet?)
If you find you’re having problems with your welt drooping you can slip an underwelt inside, either sew in interfacing or horsehair canvas.
Fred is tired from all the website excitement and pocket excitement.