Welter Skelter II

HAPPY WEDNESDAY! What? It’s Wednesday somewhere in the world…if you squint…a little…Okay FINE my butt melted into my couch and I couldn’t move okay?

So anyway Happy Wednesday and welcome to this week’s Robin’s Nest. Last week we covered how to put in a single welt pocket, and this week we’re going to talk about the double welt. It looks a lot like a single welt, but there’s two. logical right?

Now why might one want a double welt pocket? Well it’s a smashing way to put a pocket in your new Tuxedo or Lounge Jacket! 

Double Welt Pocket

Much like the single welt pocket this pocket begins with your fashion fabric you’re putting the pocket into and a welt piece. I highly advise you interface this one for a nice crisp finish. Why didn’t I interface it you ask? Cause I didn’t have any, and the closest fabric store would involve getting in my car with a steering wheel so hot you need oven mitts. Cut your welt piece the size directed in your pattern, or if you’re freeballing it like me I’m using a rectangle 4″ tall by that-looks-about-right long. This is a very scientific process you see.   

Step 1. Cut a template, or mark your welt so you can press up both sides leaving a 1″ strip down the middle. I used a metal ruler that I can just press around.  


(If you’re in the market for a birthday gift for Bob I hear he’d like a nice clean ironing board)

Step 2.  Mark 1″ in from the two short ends. This will be your STOP STITCHING marks.

Step 3. This one sounds confusing but it’s really not. Lay your welt on-top of the right side of your fashion fabric so the sides stick UP. Stitch down with 1/4″ Steam allowances. 

Remember to start stitching and stop stitching right at your marked lines. This is actually really important. If your lines aren’t even you’ll end up with a not-square welt and that will make certain people’s OCD go all wonky *twitch*twitch*.

Leave the short sides of the rectangle open, we’ll stitch them later.

Here is what it looks like when it’s all stitched…

Step 4: Carefully cut your pocket open. When you get to within 3/4 of an inch of your end stitching turn your scissors cut a 45degree angle slit towards each stitching line, get as close as you can. Again this is necessary for a sharp OCD-passing pocket.

Step 5. Turn the pocket right side out through the slit. This is what mine looked like before pressing. Pressing IS IMPORTANT! (no I don’t have stock in Rowenta…yet, good idea though).  Press both sides of your slit open, even though they end up folded against each other pressing them open first gives you a nicer sharper edge. 

Step 6? One last step, fold back the fashion fabric and stitch down the short sides of your rectangle.

Step 7. TADA give it a final press and step back to admire your handy work. Have a Lemonade! you’ve earned it sewing in this heatwave!

Next Week…How to attach the pocket bag!

are there any tailoring techniques you’ve always wanted to learn? Tell me and we’ll start ticking through the list!