Yesterday, I constructed the bodice and talked about the importance of building out of good interlining.
Today, I put the bones in.
Now let me be clear. Boning a bodice is NOT a substitute for properly interlining (and sometimes padding and canvassing) your bodice. If you make it out of crap fabric, you will have a crappy bodice. And fusible interfacing doesn’t solve the problem. Sometimes it only makes it worse.
This bodice is boned for one simple reason: they boned the seams of bodices in the Victorian period.
This also doesn’t mean you get to leave off the corset. (Unless, of course, you’re a loose woman!)
Bones are a structural assist to the integrity of the bodice. It keeps it from folding and puckering as you move. And they did it. So I’m doing it. You know how I am.
So I dug into my stock and got what I needed for this project. Have I mention that Reconstructing History has everything you need to make this outfit (except the fabric)? Well, you didn’t think I was doing this to be entertaining, did you?
Our 3/4 inch cotton twill tape is perfect for making boning casings for our 1/4 inch flat steel and spiral steel bones. Just fold it in half and sew as close to the edge as you dare. Then whipstitch them into the seams of your bodice.
Or use a zipper foot!
Here’s the bodice laid flat with bones sewn into all the seams (except center back) and the darts.
And here’s the bodice from front and side with the bones sewn in. Can you see the difference? Probably not. But after sitting down, standing up, walking, bending, etc., you’d see the waistline wrinkle and pucker if those bones weren’t there.
Tomorrow: That Pesky Hip Drape!