Early Tudor Project — Katherine of Aragon’s Portrait dated 1502 — Part XV

Finally — Those Pesky Sleeves!

First, if you need a refesher on what we were saying about the sleeve construction, go here and have a read.

Now, you will remember that we can’t actually see any part of the sleeves but the shoulders in the picture I’m trying to replicate:

However, there are some similar pictures that show the sleeves and I’m taking my cue from them:

CleveJoosPortraitAngietevavndenRijnecropped.jpg CleveJoos1520sWoman.jpg1490-1500CharlesdOrleanslover addressingthree_ladies.jpg

With this triangular sleeve shape in mind, I cut my sleeves.  As indicated in earlier experiments, I cut them square to the body (without a sleeve cap) .  I intend to attach them close to the center line of the back so they angle over the shoulder and look like they’re close to falling off the shouder (but they’re actually more secure than the other way).  Here is a schematic to show what I mean:

sleeves.gifsleevesabove.gif

Front View on Left. View from Above on Right.

More later…

1:17 pm — MAJOR frustration! I’ve sewn the side seams permanently now, but now I can’t get the gown on the mannequin. I just had it on and it fits fine. The shoulders and rib cage of my duct tape double are jsut too broad. I can’t come within 4″ of closing it, And I can’t even get the shoulder straps on without unpinning them at the top.

It’s not a huge problem because I know the gown fits me. I just can’t put it on the mannequin to check anything because it’s not and accurate representation of me.

The big problem is that I am not going to be able to test the sleeves on the mannequin before I sew them. I’m going to have to either wing it or go through all the trouble of putting the thing on, enlisting Bob’s help, and testing them on myself. Frustration!!!

Well, I will soldier on. I’ll sew the skirt side seams and insert the front gore. Then I’ll do the sleeves and get back to you. Check back in a few hours!

More in a few hours…

9:12 pm — My darling pleasantly ripped the arms off my duct tape double and at least I can get the dress on it now.  It looks too tight but I know it’s not when it’s on me.  At least I will be able to place the sleeves properly tomorrow.

Yes, tomorrow.  I just finished sewing the skirt side seams and I love the gown again now that it looks so good on the mannequin.  But I have too much fur up my nose to continue tonite.

Tomorrow… the sleeves and the finishing work.


© 2009 Kass McGann. All Rights Reserved. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice, the author’s name and website, and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.